How to Set Up A Workshop

Setting up a workshop usually takes a long time and it is not easy to plan beforehand to suit everybody's needs and circumstances. All I can hope to do is to pass on the knowledge I have acquired from messing about for some years. I believe it is every handyman's ambition to have a workshop of his own some day, so here goes.

I am going to assume you have decided to buy one of the larger types of lathes of approximately 48 in. overall length, to take up turning quite seriously. With this type of lathe, we shall probably have floor standard lamps in mind and these have to have a hole bored through their entire length, using a 24 in. auger, which will be passed through the tail-stock or similar attachment.

To use the auger, we shall require nearly 2 ft. for elbow room. Coming to the other end of the lathe, the headstock end, we shall also probably want to do some bowl turning, so again we want another 2 ft. for elbow room. All these distances added together will give you the actual length of working space required, which is about 10 ft.

Woodturning can be quite well carried on in a narrow passage, as it is really the length of the workshop which matters. A very nice shed for turning would be one about 10 ft. long by 6 ft. to 8 ft. wide, with a 2 ft. wide bench running the whole length of one of the longest sides. Make this bench as strong as possible, preferably with 11/2 in. thick boards to form the top.

You may think this is rather extravagant, having a bench of this length, but until you have actually done some turning, it is difficult to realize just how many bits and pieces you get around you. Fix the bench firmly to the walls and floor, so that it is perfectly rigid, and any vibration in turning operations (and believe me, you will get plenty), will not shake the whole bench and fitments to pieces.

The height of the bench cannot definitely be laid down, as this depends on the height of the lathe itself, and on the height of the person using it. However, the combined height of bench and lathe should be arranged so that the headstock is level with your elbow. If the bench is too low, you can soon develop mysterious pains in your back, which will make turning a real misery. Bearing in mind that you may stand for a considerable time at the bench, a nice comfortable working position is to be aimed at.

We cannot always choose the exact position for a shed to be built, but we must have plenty of light. I prefer to have a window in front of the lathe facing away from the sun, if possible. A northern facing window is ideal. You may think that this is all wrong, but working with the sun streaming into your face in the summer is most unpleasant, and, furthermore, it plays havoc with any partly turned articles which may be lying on the bench.

In front of you and just below the window, arrange some simple clips, or nails will do, to hold your various turning tools, and above the window, put a nice long shelf to keep your different turning attachments, such as faceplates, drills and chucks. To your right and left above the bench, have more shelves on which to keep partly turned articles, screws and miscellaneous odds and ends. Underneath the bench, it is a good idea to have still more shelves on which to keep your wood of various types and sizes, all together.

This gives you some idea of a satisfactory workshop set up for turning. Of course, it may be possible to improve on it, but after some years of turning and rearranging my own workshop, this is the pattern I have found to be most practical. You may fancy a larger workshop, but where turning is done, it is a case of the bigger the shed, the bigger the mess.

About the Author

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Jet Mini Lathe

Heavy duty cast iron construction ensures stability with virtually no vibration.

• Shown at right with optional bed extension
• Specially designed and built exclusively by JET
• Heavy-duty cast iron lathe bed ensures stability and minimal operating vibration
• Heavy-duty cast iron headstock and tailstock provide rigidity, strength and years of trouble-free operation
• Tailstock is hollow allowing long hole boring
• Quick release levers allow for easy & accurate positioning of tool rest and tailstock
• A 1/2 HP totally enclosed, fan cooled motor powers 6 spindle speeds ranging from 500 to 3,975 RPM
• Removable safety toggle switch will eliminate accidental operation
• Convenient adjustment handle to easily tilt motor while changing speeds
• Solid rubber feet to eliminate movement while in operation
• Solid tailstock contains live center with a full 2" ram capacity
• Removable pin in live center for boring through stock

Jet Mini Lathe Specifications
Stock Number: 708351

Model: JML-1014

Capacities Swing Over Bed (in): 10

Swing Over Tool Rest Base (in): 7-1/2

Working Distance Between Centers (in): 14

Speeds (RPM): (6) 500 - 3,975

Spindle Nose (in x T.P.I.): 1 x 8

Hole (completely through spindle/in): 3/8

Headstock Taper: MT-2

Tailstock Taper: MT-2

Hole Through Tailstock (in): 3/8

Ram Travel (in): 2

Overall Dimensions (HxWxL/in): 24-5/8 x 7-1/4 x 14

Motor (TEFC): 1/2 HP, 1 Ph 115V Only

Net Weight (lbs): 69

Standard Equipment

• 6" tool rest
• Live center
• 3" face plate
• Safety goggles
• Spur center
• Tooling knockout

BUY Jet Mini Lathe

Lathe. Accessories

Unless object has cone machined on him which perfectly matches cone internal in axis, or has wire which perfectly match wire external on axis (two things which almost never occurs), an accessory must be used to assemble an object to the axis. An object can be bolted or screwed with a front plate, a large flat disc which goes up to the axis. Alternatively dogs of front plate can be employed to fix work at the front plate. An object can be maintained in a chuck of three or four-jaw, which goes up directly to the axis. In the work of precision (and some classes of work of repetition), of the objects cylindrical are invariably held in a ring inserted in the axis and fixed by an extensible bar, or a hat of closing of ring on the axis. Suitable rings can also be used to assemble the square objects.

A mol object (out of wood) can be gripped between the centers by employing an ordering of tooth to the headstock, which bites in wood and gives the couple to it. A soft dead center is employed in the axis of headstock while work turns with the center. Since the center is soft it can be rectified in place before employment. The angle included is 60 degrees. Traditionally a hard dead center is employed as well as the suitable lubricant in the tailstock to support the object. In practice modern the dead center is frequently replaced a center of phase or (centre of rotation) while it turns freely with the object usually on ball bearings, by reducing the heat of friction, which is particularly important with the high T/MN.

A carrier of turn can also be used while turning between two centers. In woodturning, a sub-type of a center of phase is a center of cup, which is a metal cone surrounded by an annular ring of the metal which decreases the chances to duplicate object. A circular of metal plate with very the holes spaced around the periphery, rise with the axis, is called a "dish of index". It can be employed to turn the axis a precise number of degrees, the leaven then with key in place, facilitating repeated auxiliary operations made with the object.

About the Author

The author, Jeremy Stone, is a recognized American home improvement expert. More at Glueguns.net - Home Improvement Ideas For The True American Homeowner.